k/i ^£>11. No. 14. 

Issued Monthly. 




AUGUST, 1896. 


Price, 10 Cents. 
$1.20 Per Year. 



HEARTS. 



A. HOWARD CADY. 


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resi_ 

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><#*^ '«'^r*o *«^w^c 

...SPALDING’S... 

Illustrated Catalogue 

OF 

... SPRING SPORTS SUMMER. . 

FUBLISHED^ABOUT FEBRUARY FIRST. 

BASE BALL, LAWN TEN NIS, 

GOLF, ATHLET IC GOODS^ 

BICYCLE SUNDRIES^ 

UNIFORMS and ACCESSORIES 


Handsqmely and profusely illustrated, the recognized 
authority for standard goods, and the most complete cata¬ 
logue of its kind published. Mailed free to any address. 

* 

A. G. SPALDING & BROS. 

MEW YO-tK CHICAGO PHILADELPHIA 


» 







HEARTS 

RULES AND INSTRUCTIONS FOR 
PLAYING THE GAME 


««Illustrated • 



li 

PUBLISHED BY THE 

American Sports Publishing Company 

24I BROADWAY, NEW YORK 
Copyrighted, 1896, by American Sports Publishing Company. 

1 

/ 












PREFACE* 

¥ 

In offering this little volume to the readers of the Spalding 
Home Library, I can scarcely venture to hope that “it will 
fill a long felt want,” but may trust, at least, that it will be of 
some service. It will bring the now very- popular game of 
Hearts to the notice, perhaps, of those who only know it by 
hearsay, and will make the players who already know it, 
more familiar with it and introduce them to fresh variations of 
the same. 

There never can be anything especially original in a treatise 
on a game, as the rules and various methods of play are gener¬ 
ally pretty well founded before a writer takes them in hand. 

There are doubtless various other books which will give 
more elaborate directions and illustrations, but if this serves 
to help the student in learning the game and to suggest new 
fields of exploration into its more intricate varieties than those 
already known to the Heart player, and by so doing give 
pleasure, the author will ask nothing further. 

New York, Aug. i, 1896. A. H. C. 


Ibeavts. 


j- 

INTRODUCTORY AND DESCRIPTIVE. 

In studying a game of cards, be it ancient or modern, the 
natural instinct always is to look for its origin, to ascertain 
how, when and where it was invented. 

When it is found to be difficult, if not altogether impossible, 
to discover the period and the manner of the beginning of a 
given method or practice, and even the etymology of the name 
of the game, and the student therefore has to abandon the plan 
of placing it in its proper niche in the galaxy of card pastimes, 
the disappointment is keen and there is a feeling of baffled en¬ 
terprise not easy to accept philosophically. 

How many amusements, of field and drawing-room, however, 
place us in just such a predicament? We carefully go over the 
game itself, we dig, we delve in the archives about us; but in 
vain. Not a sign or token to tell us, even in the vaguest man¬ 
ner, where the pastime found its origin or how it got its name. 

Card games, it is claimed, can be traced easily back to the 
latter part of the thirteenth century, when pleyinge cardes first 
became known in England and were played in their primitive 
form there. 

Cards appear to have been in use on the continent—in Ger¬ 
many, France and Italy—prior to this epoch, while their origin 
in the East dates further back still. 

Just what the very primitive games were we do not know; 
but according to Boiteau, a French authority, Tarot was the 
first, with a distinctive name, and came into existence toward 
the end of the fourteenth century, during the reign of Charles 
VI. 

In Spain, where the pack was originally of forty-eight cards, 
the tens being omitted, they were divided into four suits as 
now, only, of course, differently named. 


4 


HEARTS. 


Of these, in connection with our present subject, we need 
mention only one— Copas, or chalice, which they, the Spanish, 
considered to be symbolical of the ecclesiastical order. The 
first suit of Hearts, it is said, being taken from some scriptural 
expression, as, for example, “A heart of unbelief,” . . . 

“with the heart man believeth,” etc. 

Gough rightly regards this as clever and ingenious as the 
derivation from choeur , because the ecclesiasts (priests) were 
always in the choir. 

In France, where, Dr. Stukelly tells us, the first cards used 
there were designed and colored by hand, the suits were called 
bells, hearts, leaves and acorns, representing, respectively, the 
four distinct social orders of the men of that period. 

There, as in Spain, Hearts represented the ecclesiastics. 

Later, we observe, the French seem to have adopted the 
same names for cards as those in use in England. 

Carreaux are diamonds; Colurs , hearts; Trejles, clubs, and 
Piques, spades. 

In the early French cards, the court—also known as coat 
cards, because of the costuhie—were called after individuals. 
The kings, for instance, David, Caesar, Alexander and Charles; 
the queens, Rachel, Pallas, Judic, Argine, etc. 

In England, too, at a somewhat later epoch, the court cards 
were named after royal personages. We have an example here 
in the queen of hearts called Elizabeth, of the period 1589- 
1660. 

The names of the four suits hate undergone many changes 
since their first appearance. We have known them as Espadas, 
Oros, Baston and Copas in Spain; in France, as Bells, Hearts, 
Leaves and Acorns, and so on, ad infinitum. 

Through these various evolutions it is to be noted, however, 
there has been retained in the pack almost, if not quite invari¬ 
ably, one suit answering to Hearts. 

Just why so many centuries elapsed before a game of this 
name was invented, seems strange indeed, when we reflect that 
of the four suits hearts seems ever to have been the favorite one; 
hence might surely have suggested some special line of play 
long before now. 

Perhaps, because, up to a certain time, we all have been too 
deeply engrossed in mastering the intricacies of the innumer¬ 
able English, French and other foreign games, and incidentally, 
studying out our own two already famous inventions—euchre 
and poker—to give undivided attention to the construction of 
a new one. 

And now that it has come, what mystery shrouds it! 

It has proved, even in the few years since offered to the card- 


HEARTS. 


5 


loving public—few, because in the light of ages, everything is 
comparative, hence this period seems brief—a most admirable 
game in every respect, and one which will last. 

To the uninitiated, Hearts suggests simply a fun-making 
pastime, “a round game at cards,” the sole object of which is 
to provoke unrestrained hilarity, through the medium of one 
suit, which it must be the object of each player in turn to keep 
out of his own hand, and, as far as possible, put into that of his 
opponent. 

Perhaps it began this way. We do not know. Indeed, too 
little altogether is known regarding the origin of the game. 

We are told that it was invented in this country, and having 
every reason to believe this, may fairly claim it as a purely 
American game; but further details, such as enhance the in¬ 
terest of the history of most games, we do not possess. 

Just how long ago and under what circumstances it was 
evolved we cannot say; but that it has undergone subtile, 
withal very marked, changes in popularity from that period 
on there can be no question. 

We do not learn that in the beginning it was intended, much 
less regarded as a game of chance, or that the players taking 
part therein were restricted to a given number. On the con¬ 
trary, until quite lately, it has been very generally accepted as 
a good round game. 

In the course of evolution, however, which necessarily at¬ 
tends and follows in the wake of every game, Hearts has devel¬ 
oped into a really scientific one. 

Let us take warning from whist and see that it does not be¬ 
come too scientific; for has not Cavendish, who was over here 
a short time ago to attend the Whist Congress of this year, de¬ 
clared quite unreservedly that in this country whist has become 
so much a matter of science, as to cease to be any longer a 
medium of diversion. 

The above by way of parenthesis. 

The element of gain is now a part of the game, and this of 
course lends a degree of excitement to the play which it would 
not otherwise possess. 

Hearts commends itself to all classes of players for these 
various reasons previously mentioned. While scientific enough 
—thus far not too scientific—to appeal to serious-minded players 
on one hand, and to the gain-loving on another, neither of 
these elements is absolutely essential, and to the people who 
look upon cards as simply a means of diversion, the vehicle 
with which to idle away an hour or two, it is ever a very favor¬ 
ite pastime. 

Nowadays, the four-handed game is the one most generally 


6 


HEARTS. 


played, but two, four or six, or, for that matter, an uneven 
number can take part in it. 

It is learned without difficulty and when, after brief practice, 
thoroughly mastered, played with ease: for it does not absorb 
the mental faculties of the player to the exclusion of every other 
thought and idea. It is net as intricate as many of the games 
which stand on the same level with it; nor, again, so simple as 
to be lacking in continuous interest. On the contrary, the 
player’s interest is kept alive from start to finish; but that does 
not necessarily make him oblivious to everything else in the 
world. Again, although a certain amount of card discipline is 
needed 10 maintain the proper atmosphere of the game, it is 
to be observed that a general air of friendliness reigns. It is 
not “a war to the knife” pastime, where, as in whist, for in¬ 
stance, the player looks “death to the partner” who makes a 
poor play. 

In fact, there are not supposed to be any partners. “ Every 
one for hirr self,” is the motto in Hearts, although occasionally 
in the fou. handed game, for example, if two players discover 
that they are being “loaded”— i. e ., all the hearts being played 
into their hands—they will silently ’Oin forces to “load” the 
other two and thus make a Jack. 

Perhaps, indeed, one of its chief attractions lies in the fact 
that here players of any and all degrees can meet, if not on an 
equal footing, at least on a tolerably pleasant one, where the 
“ snubbing” of lesser lights, which has become a really painful 
feature in whist, would be practically tabooed and regarded as 
altogether out of place. 

In Hearts, as in every other game, to insure success, the 
player must start with a distinct idea of the end in view and 
play accordingly. 

The object here is not always the same. It differs according 
to the game under consideration. For instance, in one of the 
varieties the aim is to take no hearts, in another to take fewer 
than the opponent, or again, less than four, or even one. In 
still another, to “load” the other players, that is, to see that 
they get all, or finally, to take all one’s self. 

In each instance, naturally, there is a special reason for this, and 
the player must arrange his play in conjunction with the same. 

The game is played always, save in cases of exception—where 
one or more deuces are discarded—with a full pack, fifty-two 
cards, which rank as follows: ace, king, queer 1 , knave, ten 
nine, eight, seven, six, five, four, three and two. 

As previously stated, any number of persons can take part in 
the game, and the pack of cards remains intact, save in the 
case of the exceptions which we will here note. 


HEARTS. 


7 


These are: If three persons are to play, the two of spades is 
discarded. 

If five, the two of both spades and clubs are thrown out. 

If six enter the game then the two of spades and clubs, also 
two and three of diamonds are put aside. Sometimes, indeed, 
instead of the three of diamonds the two of hearts, making thus 
a discard of four deuces, is put out; as a rule, however, the 
heart suit is kept intact. 

The deal is determined upon by the drawing from a pack 
spread out on the table, or again, and quite as often, by the 
throwing of a card indiscriminately to each player, and the one 
who draws or receives the lowest wins not only the right to 
deal but also the choice of seats and cards. Ace is lowest in 
this instance. 

When, as sometimes happens, two players cut or draw a card 
of the same value, if the lowest, they must cut or draw 
again. 

After the cards have been shuffled and cut they are dealt to 
the players in regular rotation and one at a time, beginning 
with the eldest hand—first player to the left—until each has 
received his quota. In the four-handed game it will be thirteen 
each. 

No card is turned up for trumps, and should by chance one 
be faced in the course of the deal or found thus in the pack, or 
should a misdeal occur the deal must be done over again. 

When the deal is finished the players look over their hands 
and arrange their cards, and then the first player to the left of 
the dealer opens the game by leading any card he likes. The 
others must follow suit if possible, the highest card of the suit 
winning the trick. The winner of the trick leads to the next 
and thus the game continues until the thirteen tricks have been 
played. 

A player is bound to follow suit when he can, but in the 
event of his not being able to do so he can play or throw away 
any cards he wishes to get rid of. Often in this way he can 
discard a heart. He must avoid, above all things, taking tricks 
which contain one or more hearts. 

When the hand is finished, all the tricks taken, then the 
players in turn must count the number of hearts their respective 
tricks hold and announce the total in their individual possession. 

A player should always take care not to pick up the cards 
until after all the hearts are accounted for. When it is a vari¬ 
ation of the game into which stakes enter, then the players 
must pay individually for the hearts which they have taken, or 
been “loaded” with, according to such arrangement as was 
made by them prior to the beginning of the play. 


8 


HEARTS. 


Each hand is “ settled for” at the conclusion of the same and 
before another is begun. Thus the players are free to leave the 
game at the end of a hand or continue in it indefinitely. 

The variations in this game may be summed up briefly as 
follows: 

Single-handed Hearts. 

Three-handed Hearts. 

Four-handed or Sweepstake Hearts. 

Five and Six-handed Hearts. 

Auction Hearts. 

Spot Hearts. 

Progressive Hearts. 

Drive Hearts. 

Joker Hearts. 

Jack-Pot Hearts. 

Although quite imposing in number it does not necessarily 
follow that all the varieties mentioned above are of importance, 
or by any means based upon the somewhat abstruse and scien¬ 
tific principles which govern the four-handed one, for instance. 

The same laws which govern one game apply to all, and be¬ 
fore describing the several varieties, therefore, it will be well to 
put them down. The reader, in studying the various games in 
turn, will know where to make exception to any given rule, 
which under certain phases does not fit the case. 

In giving the rules now in general use among Heart players 
I shall try to elucidate and abbreviate them to the greatest 
advantage of the student, who should not be hampered a the 
beginning by unnecessarily elaborated descriptions of the same. 


HEARTS. 


9 


RULES. 

FORMING THE TABLE. 

i. The persons entering the room first have the choice, unless 
more than the number constituting a tableful assemble, in which 
event the question is settled by cutting; the players cutting the 
lowest cards winning the prior right to enter the game. Six 
persons, it is generally accepted, is the largest number that can 
constitute a table. 


CUTTING. 

2. In cutting, ace is lowest. 

3. In cutting, the player who cuts the lowest card wins the 
deal. 

4. When players cut cards of equal value they must cut again. 

5. All the players,must cut or draw from the same pack, and 
any one who exposes unwittingly or otherwise more than one 
card shall cut again. In determining the deal, drawing from a 
pack spread out on the table answers to cutting. 

THE PACK. 

6. This consists of fifty-two cards, ranking as follows: Ace, 
king, queen, knave, ten, nine, eight, seven, six, five, four, three, 
two. In this game ace ranks highest, of course. 

7. In three-handed Hearts the two of spades is discarded; in 
five-handed Hearts the twos from both spades and clubs are put 
aside; in the six-handed variety all four twos, or else the twos 
of clubs, spades and diamonds and three spot of diamonds are 
thrown out. 

8. When the joker is used, in Joker Hearts, the two of hearts 
is taken out and the joker put in its place. 

DEALING. 

9. If, to promote rapidity in play, two packs of cards are 
used, the player next to the eldest hand shall gather together 
and shuffle the cards preparatory to the next deal and place 
them at his right. 


IO 


Hearts. 


10. The dealer may shuffle last, after which he must offer 
them to the opponent at his right to cut; the cut to consist of 
not less than four cards. 

11. When, through accident or design, confusion occurs, a 
card or cards are exposed, either in cutting or reuniting them 
after the cutting, the shuffling and cutting must be repeated. 

12. A dealer who re-shuffles cards already cut or looks at the 
one at the bottom of the pack forfeits his deal. 

13. The cards having been properly cut must be dealt one at 
a time to each player in turn, beginning at the left and contin¬ 
uing the round until all the cards are distributed. In single 
handed Hearts each player will receive thirteen cards, the 
other twenty-six forming the stock to be drawn from. 

14. The deal goes to the left. 

15. If during the deal or in the course of the play the pack 
has been found to be incorrect, the same dealer must have a 
new deal. 

16. When a card is turned face upward in the pack the 
dealer may claim a new deal. 

17. When a card is discovered to be torn, spotted, or in such 
a condition that it can be easily distinguished from the others, 
a new pack must be produced, and the dealer may in this in¬ 
stance also have a fresh deal. 

18. When, during the deal, a card is inadvertently or other¬ 
wise exposed, the player who receives it can require a fresh 
deal, provided he has not already touched any other of his 
cards. When the deal stands the exposed card shall not be 
called. 

19. A player who begins a deal out of turn can be stopped 
prior to the distribution of the last card. 

20. If a deal out of turn is completed before the mistake is 
discovered it must stand, and the pack, too, must remain un¬ 
changed. 

MISDEAL. 

21. When a misdeal occurs the dealer must deal over again. 
It must be borne in mind that there is no advantage in having 
the deal, whereas there is one in the lead; therefore the deal is 
not passed on to the eldest hand, as is the case in most games. 
In this instance it would only serve to deprive that player of 
the desirable privilege of leading. 

22. It is a misdeal when the dealer neglects to have the cards 
cut and the mistake is discovered prior to the dealing of the 
last card in the pack. 

23. It is a misdeal to deal a card incorrectly and to neglect 
to rectify the error before continuing the deal. 


HEARTS. 


II 


24. It is a misdeal if the dealer counts the cards in the pack 
or those already on the table. 

IRREGULARITIES IN THE HANDS. 

25. If, prior to the completion of the first trick, any one 
player discovers that he has an incorrect number of cards, pro¬ 
vided, of course, that the pack is intact, he may consider it a 
misdeal and demand a fresh deal. 

26. If, after all have played to the first trick, it is discovered 
that two of the players have an incorrect number of cards in 
their hands, the pack being a complete one, the player holding 
the lesser number must draw from the one who has the greater, 
after which, if the game is being played with stakes, each must 
pay a forfeit by putting five counters, Usually, into the pool. 

27. If, during the play of a hand or at the end of the same, 
one of the players is found to have one card too few, and the 
others have not only already played to the trick, but possess 
also the correct number, he must take the thirteenth trick. 

PLAYING OUT OF TURN. 

28. A player neglecting to play to one trick and playing to 
the next will not be allowed to rectify his mistake then, but 
shall be obliged to take the thirteenth trick, with all the hearts 
that may be in it. 

EXPOSED CARDS. 

29. As in Hearts each player is for himself, the penalty of 
an exposed card need not necessarily be enforced as it is in 
other games, for the facing of the card can affect only the in¬ 
dividual in question. Sometimes, however, where players elect 
to play to the most stringent rules, a player who has exposed a 
card may be called upon to lead or play it by one of the other 
participants in the game, provided that this can be done with¬ 
out a revoke. 

30. No one can prevent a player from playing an exposed 
card, and his getting rid of it thus involves no penalty. 

31. When two cards are led or played to a trick, the player 
must name the one he intended to put down and let the other 
one lie face upward on the table, as a card thus exposed or in¬ 
dicated must remain where it can be seen. 

LEADING AND PLAYING OUT OF TURN. 

32. When a player leads out of turn a suit may be called 
from him by the player to his right the next time his turn comes 
round. When, however, he does not possess any cards of this 


12 


HEARTS. 


suit, or, again, the others have already played to his false lead 
a penalty cannot be enforced. If. however, all have not played 
to it, then the cards maybe returned and will not be considered 
exposed cards. 

33. When the third hand plays before the second the fourth 
has the right to insist upon the card being taken back, and 
furthermore, he may require the third hand to play the highest 
card of said suit; or, again, he may demand that he does not 
discard his hearts. This same law applies to the other players. 

FOLLOWING SUIT. 

34. Players must follow suit when possible. 

REVOKING. 

35. “A revoke is a renounce in error not corrected in time.” 
A player revoking, but discovering his mistake before the trick 
has been turned and quitted, may correct it, and the card thus 
wrongly played becomes an exposed card. Any one or more of 
the players who had played after him may now take back their 
cards which, under the circumstances, will not be considered 
exposed cards, and play others in their stead. If, however, the 
revoke is discovered after the hand is under way it must be 
played to the end, when the player who has revoked must pay 
all the losses in that round. 

36. A revoking player may not win anything in the hand 
during which the revoke occurred; therefore if he gains the 
pool himself he shall immediately put up the thirteen counters, 
leaving them for a Jack, or in the event of his dividing it he 
must hand over six counters to the other winner and leave seven 
for a Jack. 

37. When two players revoke in the same round each one 
shall pay the entire losses of that round, as if both were indi¬ 
vidually and alone in error. Thus, if two revoke, and a third 
win the pool, he must receive twenty-six instead of thirteen 
counters. 

38. Any player claiming a revoke has the right to examine 
all the tricks at the end of a round. If by chance the accused 
player has mixed up the cards before the claimant or claimants 
have had a chance to look through the tricks the revoke is es¬ 
tablished. A claim to a revoke cannot be made after the tricks 
have been gathered up preparatory to the shuffling for the en¬ 
suing deal. 


SCORING. 

39. Sometimes it is agreed to make the score depend upon 


HEARTS. 


x 3 

the denomination of the cards captured, as for instance: Ace 
scores 5 counters; king scores 4 counters; queen scores 3 
counters; knave scores 2 counters; and the ten, nine, eight, 
seven, six, five, four, three, two 1 each. The value of the 
counters individually and collectively is also agreed upon prior 
to the beginning of the game. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

40. Tricks do not count, but must be kept intact nevertheless, 
until the end of the game, as thus the players can verify any 
possible revoke. 

41. When a trick has been turned and quitted it shall not be 
looked at again until the round is played. 

42. At the end of the game each player shall examine his- 
tricks and must put into the pool one counter for each, if any, 
heart he may have therein. 

43. When only one player has taken no hearts and the others 
have gotten one at least each, he wins the pool. 

44. When two players have taken no hearts, the others hav¬ 
ing gotten one at least each, the pool is divided between them, 
the odd counter going to the winner nearest to left of the dealer, 
or, as is sometimes agreed upon, allowed to remain in the pool 
until the next round. 

45. When three players have taken no hearts the thirteen 
counters are left in the pool to form a Jack; this can only be 
won according to Rule 42, and in addition to the same, that 
during the period the Jack is being played for, and until it is 
won, the players in turn must add to the pool by paying for the 
hearts taken in each round. 

46. A variation sometimes adopted, is : when all the players 
have taken hearts the pool must remain undisturbed and in¬ 
creases the amount to be played for the next hand. This will 
sometimes occur two or three times in succession, thirteen 
counters being added to the pool each round. 

47. Each trick must be gathered and turned prior to the 
leading of a card to the next one, the players having the right 
always to look at the last trick turned. 

48. In the variation known as Auction Hearts the player who 
revokes must pay not only the number of chips adjudged accord¬ 
ing to Rule 37, but in addition the amount of the bid. 

49. In Auction Hearts the eldest hand has the first bid and 
the dealer the second. 

50. There is no second bid, and the player who has let it pass 
the first time round is out of it. 


14 


HEARTS. 


GENERAL HINTS ON PLAYING. 

To play Plearts well, and in this day no one is content to 
play an indifferent game, requires actual skill. Certain features 
essential to whist, it will be noted, are also expedient here. 

First, the player must go carefully over his hand, sorting it 
into the different suits, and forming an estimate while doing so 
of the probabilities, and even possibilities, of the same. Fol¬ 
lowing this, he must bear in mind that no matter what his hand 
may contain, the most important factor to his success will lie 
in his ability to follow the run of the cards played and drawing 
inference therefrom regarding the approximate positions of the 
various suits in the hands of the other players. 

He must, in a general way, shape his play according to the 
variety of the game he is engaged in. 

In Sweepstake Hearts, for instance, his aim will be to avoid 
taking any hearts. The taking of even one heart here will 
prevent his winning anything. His losses will naturally be 
influenced by the number of hearts he takes, as every heart 
adds to the counters he must put in the pool. 

Generally it is wisest to get rid of the highest, and in this 
game, the most dangerous cards. Therefore it requires careful 
judgment to decide upon and select the cards to be disposed of, 
especially when a short suit being exhausted, a longer suit or 
suits with correspondingly high cards remain in the hand. For 
instance: 



of which being of commanding denomination need be discarded 
for the moment. With these are king, queen, knave and three 
of clubs; ace, queen, ten and six of diamonds; seven and four 
of spades. 

Just an ordinary hand which might fall to any one of “the 
players. We will suppose that the one who has it has also the 
lead. It is obvious that his best play will be to lead one of 
the two spades, and directly this suit is disposed of he must 
discard the highest cards in the diamond and club suits. By 
thus getting rid of the commanding cards he evades the proba- 





HEARTS. 


15 


Lility of taking tricks with hearts in them later on. The hearts 
in his hand he must judiciously throw away as opportunity offers. 

Sometimes a hand is such that not only is it difficult to get 
rid of commanding cards, hut it seems equally hard, if not alto¬ 
gether impossible, to avoid taking hearts. Directly this latter 
fact becomes apparent he must decide whether to try and ar¬ 
range his play so as to distribute the hearts among all the other 
players, thus preventing any one of them from “ taking none,” 
or whether he will get them all for himself. In either case, 
provided he succeeds, he has a chance of winning back his 
money in the following Jack. 

It is easier, but, incidentally, more expensive for a player to 
take all the hearts himself, because here the other three players 
are quite ready to help him, as they recognize the fact that 
their chances are as good as his for the prospective Jack, and 
under this plan it will cost them nothing. Therefore a player 
should conceal his plan as far as possible, unless, of course, he 
has marked grounds for success. 

Sometimes another player w r ill consider his chances of dis¬ 
tributing hearts among the others quite as good as that of any 
one else at the table, and when he discovers that the scheme 
is already in force then he will try to at least divide the pool. 

As previously state.d, there is no advantage in the deal; but 
there is in the lead, as it opens the way to an inference at least 
of the other hands, and this will sometimes guide the future 
play of the leader. 

Generally a player should avoid taking a trick in any suit 
that has been led a second time. An exception to this can be 
made by the last player, however, provided the trick has no 
hearts. It is an advantage indeed if the trick in question has 
a commanding card of the suit, and he in- turn has a good card 
for the ensuing lead. 

If the second or third player plays a low card of the suit 
led in the first hand it is an indication that he is short in that 
suit. This, however, is not always the case, as it may be, on 
the contrary, that it is his long suit, and that he keeps back a 
high card lest some other player, who is short of the suit, will 
avail himself of this chance to get rid of a heart. 

The fourth player, playing a very low card of a suit which is 
being led the first time, when no heart has been discarded, also 
gives the impression that he is short in said suit. 

When a player has the original lead he must weigh well the 
advantage of starting with a plain suit or with hearts. If the 
latter, he must be able to consider fully the probability of the 
heart he may elect to lead not w inning, and on the other hand, 
if he decides to begin with a plain suit he must have an impres- 


1 6 


hearts. 


sion as to whether hearts are likely to be discarded on it in a 
first or second round. This is very essential, especially if high 
cards of a given plain suit are under consideration. No one 
but himself can decide this momentous question, and even a 
very thorough understanding of the game and cards will not 
always lead to a satisfactory conclusion. 

If the player holds a few and very small hearts, such as 
two, three, four and five, or three, six and seven, the natural 
inference is that he will find it wise to play from them imme¬ 
diately, and thus draw out and get rid of most of the other 
hearts without delay. Among expert players, however, it is 
generally considered a better policy—save when his plain suits 
are composed of very high, therefore dangerous, cards—to hold 
back the small hearts until he has some impression from the 
fall of the cards just how the various suits are distributed. 

It is wise to lead hearts if they are comparatively small, 
hence safe, when the cards in the plain suits are very high. 
Too high cards of plain suits and too many of them can become 
as dangerous as the same quality and quantity in hearts. 

Therefore, in leading the small hearts under these condi¬ 
tions, the player has the opportunity often of taking nearly all 
the tricks in the plain suits and winning the pool by thus 
quickly getting rid of the hearts. 

As regards leading from plain suits, many Heart players start 
with what is termed a singleton, meaning a one-card suit, or if 
they have not that, a two-card suit. Others, however, considei 
this a mistake, save where the one card is a very high one, as, 
if it be of merely a nominal denomination, the opponents will 
easily guess what it is and avoid the suit. It is safest, there¬ 
fore, to wait for some one else to lead a card of the singleton 
or two-card suit, as it is very likely to be led twice, and thus 
the player will have the opportunity of getting rid of these 
cards. As a rule, leading from a fairly long plain suit is good 
play; with a sufficient number of small cards to be safe and 
from which intermediate ones can be led, the probabilities are 
that the first trick will not be won by any of them. 

When first hand, it is often considered advisable to lead a single 
card from any suit with the exception of hearts, but, as has 
been shown above, this is not the best course, even for the first 
hand. When first hand, a low heart may be led when the 
player holds several low hearts. 

The first hand, also, will usually lead the highest card of a 
short suit, a low card of a long suit, especially when there are 
several more low cards of said suit. The first hand should 
never lead a thirteenth card of suit, as that is practically an 
invitation to be loaded with hearts by the other players. 


HEARTS. 


17 


When a suit has been led three times and cards of the other 
suits have been played to it, it is unwise for the player to lead 
it again unless he is certain that he holds the lowest card of 
said suit. For instance—and here memory comes into play—a 
player should not lead a four unless he knows that the three 
and two are already out. 

When second or third hand the play necessarily varies a little. 
It will be found generally advisable in either of these positions 
to play the highest card—if the suit is less than four—to the 
one led, unless, of course, it be hearts. If the player holds a 
long suit of the card led, he should try not to go higher than 
the card led, unless it happens to have been a very low one. 
When hearts are led, a lower card than the one led must be 
played to it. 

When the second or third player holds high cards of a suit 
which is being led for the first time, it is wise to assume that 
no one is short of the suit that hand, and to play his best card 
of the same, unless it happens to be his largest suit, in which 
event he will find it safer to underplay the commanding card of 
the trick. 

If fourth hand in the game, the player will be usually guided 
by the preceding tricks and the cards which have already been 
played to the one forming. As a rule, it will be advisable to 
play the highest of the suit led, unless a heart has already 
been played to the trick. If the player does not hold a card 
of the suit led, he must discard the highest heart in his hand, 
unless he feels that it will be more expedient to get rid of a 
commanding card of some plain suit. If hearts are led and the 
denomination of his hearts obliges him to take the trick, let 
him at least get rid of his highest heart thus. He must avoid 
taking a trick when possible, especially if he have no available 
card to lead. In any case and in any hand the player will find 
that to keep a mental score of the cards already played is the 
best policy, first because thus he will avoid leading from a 
practically exhausted suit, that is, from one of which the others 
have no card, and second, when not leading he can, through 
his knowledge of the position of the cards, gauge clearly what 
denomination of card it is wise for him to play in following 
suit. Suits which require the strictest attention of the player 
are those in which high cards predominate, for if his hand is 
composed of cards generally below sevens he has little to fear. 

The player must note, by careful watching, which of the 
others holds the lower cards of the suits in which he has the 
higher, and try as the game progresses, after a first or second 
lead of any one suit, to lead away from him in some other, as 
otherwise, holding these small and safe cards, the opponent 


i8 


HEARTS. 


will simply “load” him by himself, leading them to his most 
dangerous—because highest—suit. 

If the player can foresee this in time, he will do well to hold 
back until a second round, the court cards of the suits led, for 
even granting that he may have four or more cards of this suit, 
the risk of having to win the second hand is slight as compared 
to the probability of being out of the pool if a dangerous op¬ 
ponent gets the lead. When a player has a particularly bad 
hand, such as three cards at least of each suit and all above a 
six or seven, it is useless to attempt a discard, although in some 
instances two players, apparently indifferent to the advantage 
the others gain thereby, will undertake to load each other by 
leading several times from the same suit. Players who under¬ 
stand themselves and the game will never do this, however. 
The best plan, under the circumstances, is to accept the inev¬ 
itable, and since a discard cannot be accomplished, strive to 
take as few tricks and to make the losses as small as possible. 
A player must remember that it is better, when obliged to take 
hearts at all, to get them in plain suit rather than heart tricks. 
Indeed, a wise player will frequently, in such a case, go delib¬ 
erately to work to get hearts in the plain suits, as thus he will 
avoid the lead at the end, when most, if not all, of the hearts 
would fall to him. 

This question of discard is of far more importance than ap¬ 
pears at first glance. To the amateur card player taking up 
Hearts for the initiatory round and with just a faint outline of 
the game in his mind, it will seem essential to get rid of his 
hearts under any conditions and as quickly as possible. This 
is not always the case, however. The main point to be con¬ 
sidered in the discard is the reduction of the odds against gain¬ 
ing the pool, and this can only be attained by the throwing 
away of the really dangerous cards, not necessarily always 
hearts. For instance, therefore, the chances are that between 
a very high card of a plain suit and a low heart, it will be 
wiser to get rid of the former, for the player will not be apt to 
get a heart the first round, as all must follow suit to the card 
played if they can, but on a second or third round of this suit 
a heart will be sure to crop up from one of the opponents, and 
the player who has till now held back his commanding card of 
the suit, will have to take the trick and, incidentally, any one 
or more hearts which it may contain. 

Finally, in bringing to a close these general hints, which, 
although in places may sound like instructions, are really not 
intended as such, it is well to revert to the leads again. The 
advantageousness of this under certain conditions, especially, 
has been pointed out, and the player must try and keep before 


HEARTS. 


19 


him always the reasons for and against. When there is no 
other way of obtaining it, and he sees the dangers to himself 
which will accrue if an opponent gets and keeps control of it, 
the player must bring all his finesse to bear on winning a trick, 
which will not be a distinct disadvantage to himself, but that 
will assure him the lead at the necessary point in the game. 
Innumerable examples might be given of how to accomplish 
this, for one style of play is requisite to the player who wishes 
for the lead simply that another one may be prevented from 
getting control of it; another, for the one who wishes to “load” 
an opponent, and still another, for the one who is striving to 
get the thirteen hearts, and so on. But practice alone will 
really teach the student. Experience, we learn here, is, as in 
everything else, a far more reliable instructor than example; 
the one remains with us, because a part of us, the other makes 
its more or less fleeting impression, we turn the page and, nine 
times out of ten, forget. 

Following these preceding suggestions on the manner of 
play, we offer an outline of the several variations on the game, 
recommending here, as elsewhere, a practical demonstration of 
the same rather than too close or constant reading of the de¬ 
scription of it, for more can be learned in one evening’s prac¬ 
tice than in a week’s mere reading. 

SINGLE-HANDED HEARTS. 

Hearts has passed through many evolutions since it first 
came into being as a round game, one of these having devel¬ 
oped it into a two-handed, or as it is technically called, single- 
handed variation. Single-handed games are not only very 
agreeable, but also eminently useful to know. In every house¬ 
hold there is usually one member who is devoted to card pas¬ 
times, and no matter what the engagements, occupations or 
diversions of the hour may be, it is expected always that some 
one of the others will be ready to join in a game. Sometimes 
it is merely a nominal performance, sitting by to watch and 
here and there assis at a variation of solitaire. More often, 
however, it is to take part in a game of euchre, ecarte, bezique, 
piquet, pinochle, etc., according to the fancy at that moment 
of the “inveterate card player,” and then it is that one realizes 
the advantage, if not actual necessity, of being practically 
familiar with cards in general, but with the single-handed 
varieties in particular. 

Some card games are more intricate than others, hence more 
difficult to learn, but this fact does not or should not, at least, 
deter one from taking up one after the other in turn. Among 
the number which maybe added to the list given above, Hearts 


20 


HEARTS. 


claims first place. By any one at all familiar with cards it is 
very easily learned, being probably the least complicated of 
any of the Heart variations. It has this advantage, too—it in¬ 
troduces one to Heart games in general, as in it one acquires 
the art of manoeuvre essential to its more extended varieties. 
Both observation and memory receive here a good test, which 
will be further trained as the game proceeds. 

The game opens, of course, with the cutting, which deter¬ 
mines the deal, and this is followed by the usual form of 
agreement regarding the real or nominal value of the counters. 
After this thirteen cards each are dealt to the players in turn, 
one at a time, the remaining twenty-six of the pack being 
placed face downward on the table. 

The first hand, or, in this instance, called the dealer’s adver¬ 
sary, leads by playing any card he likes. The dealer must fol¬ 
low suit if possible. Here, as in other games, the highest card 
of the suit led wins the trick. Before leading to the following 
trick, the winner of the preceding one draws a card from the 
top of the half pack at hand and the other player does the same; 
thus their hands are restored to thirteen cards each. 

The game proceeds in this manner, drawing and playing after 
each trick, until the stock is exhausted, when, of course, the 
players simply use up the cards remaining in their hands. 
After the last trick has been played to and won, the players 
count the hearts they have individually taken and announce 
the number of the same. 

The object here being to take fewer hearts than the adver¬ 
sary, the player, before beginning the game, must carefully 
examine the thirteen cards he holds and determine then which 
are his best—least dangerous—suits. He cannot draw any in¬ 
ference from merely seeing his own hand as to what cards the 
adversary may hold or what may still remain on the table; 
therefore his wisest plan probably will be to lead cards of what 
he regards as his dangerous suit, hence to be gotten rid of as 
speedily as possible. 

It is a disadvantage, of course, to hold many cards of a suit of 
which the opponent has already gotten rid himself, as in case 
of the lead, the tricks will naturally fall to the player who has 
these cards. Again, to counterbalance this, however, it is con¬ 
sidered a decided advantage to possess a missing suit. When 
a player draws a card of a missing suit he will do well to get 
rid of it by leading it immediately, taking care, however, not 
to let his opponent infer what his manoeuvre is. 

To keep the run of the cards is necessary to success in this 
variation, and it requires a good card memory for this. When 
a player feels that he can trust to his memory he may venture 


HEARTS. 


21 


to vary tne lead often; otherwise he will probably find it safer 
to keep to one suit until he knows it to be pretty well exhausted. 

By the time all the cards have been drawn and only those in 
hand remain to be played, a really good player will be in com¬ 
mand of the situation, knowing not only what cards are out, 
but also the suit and rank of those held by his opponent. 

There are various ways of accomplishing this, but the sim¬ 
plest, which is always the best, would seem to be the one which 
gives least trouble to the player. This offers opportunity for 
an argument as to what gives the least trouble, and can only be 
answered by the individual. Some players enjoy mystifying 
mental calculations, others are content with the simpler process 
of merely noting the cards in the tricks as one after the other 
they are played and turned. The only system required in this 
is a defined rotation of the four suits in one’s mind, as, for in¬ 
stance, hearts, the most important card of the series, then dia¬ 
monds, clubs and spades; or, for that matter, in the order which 
the player prefers, and as the tricks are gathered, to observe 
how many cards each of the suits and what rank they represent. 
For example: if one trick contains a knave of hearts and king 
of diamonds, the next two the king and queen of hearts, ace of 
hearts and ten of clubs, the player will know that although the 
four most dangerous hearts are disposed of, there are still nine 
of that suit to play, while practically all the commanding cards 
in the plain suits have yet to be led to victory or defeat, and 
with each succeeding trick will carefully note in his mind what 
cards are thus disposed of. Only familiarity with the cards 
and continuous practice will perfect one, for memorizing cards 
is like learning music by heart, not a mere mechanical perform¬ 
ance, which is often the mistaken idea one holds concerning 
the latter, but an intellectual operation requiring knowledge of 
the subject and a thorough understanding of the meaning of 
each card and its respective power. 

THREE-HANDED HEARTS. 

In this variation the deuce of spades is discarded from the 
pack, and after the usual formalities are gone through with, to 
decide the deal and so forth, the game begins by dealing to the 
three players seventeen cards each. 

The three-handed variety is generally considered the most 
difficult of all. First, there are so many rounds to each of the 
suits that one is apt to become confused and lose the run of the 
cards, and then, suddenly, upon one of the players passing a 
given suit the other two become aware of what remaining cards 
each of them possess of the same, and then great finessing en- 


22 


HEARTS. 


sues; second, because when all of the players in turn have 
passed or refused each a different suit, then the actual state of 
the various hands is manifest, and it becomes a question of 
clever manoeuvring as to which shall succeed in outwitting the 
other two. 

Unless quite safe beforehand, the player who has no com¬ 
manding cards for the end game runs the risk of being loaded 
during the final tricks. 

There are various methods of “settling,” that is, determining 
the value of the counters and the manner of payment at the 
close of the game. One of these, for instance, is to make the 
player taking the most hearts pay to the other two as many 
counters as lie has hearts in excess of theirs. 


THREE-HANDED HEARTS. 


A’s HAND. 



b’s hand. 
Spades—Q, 6, 3. 

Hearts—A, Q, 9, 7, 2. 
Clubs—A. K, 9, 2 . 
Diamonds—A, Kn, 6, 5, 4. 


c’s HAND. 
Spades—10, 7, 4. 

Hearts—K. Kn, 10, 5, 4, 3. 
Clubs—10, 7. 6. 
Diamonds—Q, 8, 7, 3, 2. 


THE PLAY. 


A Star (*) Denotes the Winning Card. 




A Deals. 













HEARTS. 


23 


Trick III. 
B 


Trick IV. 
*B 




O 


Trick VII. 
B 


Trick VIII. 
*B 



Trick IX. 
B. 



O 

* 


Remark— A has every other trick and all the hearts. 




























24 


HEARTS. 


FOUR-HANDED HEARTS. 

This variation calls for but a passing notice here, as it has 
been very thoroughly described in the introductory chapter and 
general hints for play. 

As previously stated, each player plays quite independent of 
the rest, and his play is guided by the object he has in view, 
which will be to avoid taking any hearts, or failing to do this, 
to get them all. 

Prior to beginning the game, each of the players purchases a 
given number of chips, of nominal or real value, according to 
the character of Hearts to be played. As a rule, fifty is the 
number, and the value of the same is settled by mutual agree¬ 
ment before cutting for the deal. At the end of each hand, or 
round, the players in turn count and announce the number of 
hearts taken, paying into the pool one counter or chip for each 
one they have. Again, and according to the “settling” intro¬ 
duced by Mr. Howell, which is very popular among good 
players, they begin with an equal number of chips each, the 
value of which is agreed upon prior to the starting of the game. 
At the close of each round the hearts are counted and an¬ 
nounced as usual, after which the players in turn pay into the 
pool not alone one chip for every heart, but for every heart 
taken as many counters as there are other players. For exam¬ 
ple: In this, the four-handed game, though the rule obtains 
with all, A has taken in two hearts, and there are of course 
three other players, hence he pays three chips to each heart— 
six altogether; B has taken in four hearts and pays accordingly 
twelve chips into the pool, and C, on his seven hearts, twenty- 
one chips; D has taken no hearts, hence pays in no chips. The 
pool therefore contains thirty-nine chips, and from this each 
player now proceeds to draw to draw one chip for every heart 
not taken by him. D, not having taken any hearts, gets thir¬ 
teen chips from the pool; A draws eleven, the number which 
he did not take, his hearts having been only two, B takes nine 
and C six. This exhausts the pool and there are no Jacks. 

Of course this example is very simple; but even turning it 
about, making the various players win or lose more or less chips 
the result will be found to be the same. A player can win or 
lose only a given number of chips on any given number of 
hearts. It will be quite easy to formulate a table from which 
one can draw safe conclusions. The player who takes no 
hearts wins thirteen chips on a round in the four-handed game, 
while in inverse ratio the player who takes all thirteen hearts 
naturally loses thirty-nine; the intervening numbers in gain or 
loss being easy of calculation to one familiar with the cards and 
counters. 


HEARTS. 


25 


A’s HAND. 



y’s HAND. 

Hearts—Kn, 10, 3. 
Clubs—8, 5, 4. 
Diamonds—Kn, 6, 2. 
Spades—A, Kn, 10, 3. 


b’s hand. 

Hearts—Q, 5, 4. 
Clubs—7, 3. 
Diamonds—A, K, 5. 
Spades—Q, 9, 7, 4, 2. 
Z Deals. 

THE PLAY. 


Z’S HAND. 

Hearts—r9, 7 . 

Clubs—K, Q, 10, 0. 
Diamonds— Q, 8, 4, 3. 
Spades—8, 6, 5. 


A Star (*) Denotes the Winning Card. 


Trick I. 

B 


Trick I. 


4 A 
* * 
ir+t 




A 


A 

























































26 


HEARTS. 


Trick III. 

B 



Trick IV. 


B 



A 


Remarks —Trick IV. \ does not wish his adversaries to place the knave of 
spades. B, being long in spades, fears a singleton in some other hand. A intakes a 
very shrewd discard here, getting the future command of diamonds, and eventually 
taking no hearts. 


Trick V. 

B 


Trick VI. 
B* 



A A 

Remakk 1 lick \ . Again A discards from a strong suit. 


N 













































HEARTS. 


27 


Trick VII. 

*y 



m 


:♦ ♦ 


‘A 4 

It 

JL_S 

v 

♦mp 

♦ ♦ 

♦ 





Z 


Trick VIII. 
*B 



A 


Remark —Trick VII. If, instead of discarding the 8 of diamonds at trick VII., 
Z discards the 9 of hearts, he will, at trick XI., take all the remaining hearts. 


Trick IX. 
B 


Trick X. 
B 




A 

Trick XII. 
B 


* 

N 




A 



* 


N 


































































2 $ 


HEARTS, 


Trick XIII. 



FOUR-HANDED HEARTS. 
(Sweepstakes.) 

Example of Sweepstakes No. 2. 



y’s hand. b’s hand. z’s hand. 

Hearts—K. 8, 6, 4 Hearts—Q, 10, 5. Hearts—A, Kn, 7, 3. 

Spades—Kn, 9. Spades—Q. Spades—10, 7, 5, 4, 3, 2 

Diamonds—A,Q,10,5. 3. Diamonds—Kn, 9, 8, 6. Diamonds—K. 

Clubs—A, 4. Clubs—Q,9, 8, 7, 2. Clubs—K, Kn. 
















HEARTS. 


29 


THE PLAY. 


A Star (*) Denotes the Winning Card. 



N 


>• 

* 



Remark— Trick II. By discarding a club, Z gives himself two suits in which to 
discard hearts and also withholds, thus, information regarding his strength in hearts. 



N r* 



Remark —Trick III. Y continues diamonds, as he is afraid the club discard is 
from a singleton 











































































30 


HEARTS. 


Trick V. 
*B 


Trick VI. 
*B 




A 

Trick VII. 
B 


A 

Trick VIII. 
*B 


>< 

*• 





A 

Trick IX. 
*B 


A 

Trick X. 
* B 





fV 
♦ $ 

v--- 

♦♦ ♦ 

♦ 

♦ ♦; 

•“♦a* 

+*+i 



A 

A 

* ♦ 

A 

Z 

* *2 

— . y 

s 




The remaining tricks are taken by B. 



























































HEARTS. 


31 


FIVE-HANDED HEARTS. 

In this variation the deuce of spades and clubs both are thrown 
out and the cards each are dealt to the players in turn, one at 
a time. 

In other respects the game is like the four-handed one, the 
same rules governing both. 

SIX-HANDED HEARTS. 

In six-handed Hearts the deuces of spades, clubs and dia¬ 
monds and either deuce of hearts or trey of diamonds are re¬ 
jected, thus leaving a pack of forty-eight cards, eight of which 
are dealt to each player, one at a time. The game then pro¬ 
ceeds in the usual manner. 

SPOT HEARTS. 

This is quite an interesting variation of the game, as the 
counting alone makes it altogether unlike the others. 

Here, when at the end of a round, the hearts are counted and 
announced, they score according to the number of spots on each 
card, each spot representing a unit, save in the case of the court 
or commanding cards, which have a special value affixed. 

The score therefore is: Ace, 14 ; king, 13 ; queen, 12 ; and 
jack, 11 , which, added to that of the regular spot cards, brings 
the total number up to 104 . 

The most important variation in the usual routine of the 
play lies in the fact that a fourth-hand player must not get rid 
of his highest heart when obliged to take a trick; on the con¬ 
trary, as every spot counts, it will be to his advantage to play 
the very lowest he posesses. For example, if a three is led, 
followed, second and third hands by a four and six, respectively, 
the fourth or last player, having nothing under six in hearts, is 
compelled to take the trick, but must do so with the lowest 
heart he can command. If he hold seven, ten and knave, let 
him remember that seven is his best play, and a return of the 
lead with the knave, especially if ace, king and queen are still 
out, his wisest proceeding. 

Sometimes a player who is keeping a close run of hearts and 
is quick at calculation will know what hearts are still unplayed, 
and, furthermore, that all the spots on the hearts to be played 
still, will not reach the number represented in the trick before 
him, and, therefore, refuse to take it. Having, however, high 
hearts in his hand, he will find himself compelled to win the 
rest of the hearts if he declines this trick; so, after all, the 
advantage, one way or the other is open to argument. 

The method generally adopted for settling in this variation 


32 


HEARTS. 


is for the player who has the fewest “spots” to collect from 
the others in turn, the amount of the number they have in ex¬ 
cess of his. At the end of each round there will be, of course, 
one hundred and four spots to be accounted for. 

SPOT HEARTS. 

(Four-handed Game.) 



y’s hand. 

Hearts—Q, Kn, 10, 4. 
Clubs—6. 

Diamonds—Q, Kn, 5, 4. 
Spades—Kn, 10, 6, 3. 


b’s hand. z’s hand. 

Hearts—A, 6. Hearts—K, 9, 3, 2. 

Clubs—A, K, 10, 9, 7, 2. Clubs—Q, 8. 
Diamonds—10, 3. Diamonds—9, 7, 6. 

Spades—7, 4, 2. Spades—K, Q, 9, 5 


THE PLAY. 


A Star (*) Denotes the Winning Card. 


Trick I. 


Trick II. 


B 



*A 




Co 






























Trick III, 
B 


HEARTS. 


Trick IV. 
B 


33 






*A 



♦4 4 


♦ % 

♦ *; 

N_- 

Qi 

- ■ * 

**♦ 
♦ %s 

•4 A 4 

- V* 


V aW*H fcVK 


V 



A 


Trick V. 
*B 


Trick VI. 
B 


1 * 



N 



*A 

Trick VIII. 


Trick VII. 
*B 



B 



f ^ 


• ♦ 

* ? 

F~*l 

4 

1 -■ 


♦ t 

_ _ y 

fV 

▼ 

$ $ 


♦ 4 

l_Ail 


4 



> 4^ 



*A 


ReM'RK —Trick VIII. A discards best diamond, fearing he will be forced to 
take £ trick with it, and feeling confident he can get rid of his hearts. 























































































34 


HEARTS. 


Trick IX. 
*B 


Trick X. 
B 



N 



Remark Trick IX. If B took the trick with his 6 of hearts he would have every 
remaining trick. 

Trick XII. 

B 




N 


Trick XIII. 
B 



A gets 12 heart spots; Y gets 26 heart spots; B gets 49 heart spots; Z gets 1' 
heart spots. 




















































HEARTS. 


35 


AUCTION HEARTS. 

This variation is distinctly a game of chance, although, in 
the home circle, of course, it is not necessary to play for money, 
as much fun can be derived from the varying play on the diff¬ 
erent bids. It must be frankly acknowledged, however, that 
to most players, this variation of the game without money 
would be considered “dull, stale and unprofitable.” 

Four, five or even six people can take part in it. 

After the usual form for the opening of a game has been gone 
through with, the first hand carefully examines his cards. The 
suit to be bid upon is the one he wishes to get rid of, and this 
he can only decide after weighing their respective chances. 

For instance, he may see that if diamonds were the suit to be 
gotten rid of, instead of hearts, that his hand would be an en¬ 
tirely satisfactory one, whereas, if it is to remain hearts, it will 
be a decidedly poor one, as, owing to the fact that his cards of 
this suit are very high, he is pretty sure to take the majority of 
tricks containing them. If, however, he changes it to diamonds, 
he stands a fair chance of getting clear. 

He decides, therefore, to make diamonds, the suit to be dis¬ 
carded in the place of hearts, and bids according to the odds 
in his favor. He does not announce the name of the suit he 
bids on, but simply the amount bid for the choice. Then fol¬ 
low the second and third hands. 

The first of these, not knowing, of course, what suit has 
already been bid on, must make his decision according to the 
chances that his hand seems to offer for the winning of the 
pool, or even a division of the same. With two or more play¬ 
ers still to bid, he will probably consider it safe to shut out the 
preceding bid and offer something over that. For example, if 
the first hand has bid twenty-five, the next one to bid will be 
apt to make it twenty-six. 

Following this, one or more of the players, finding their 
hands altogether unsatisfactory, may, and probably will pass, 
the last to bid, therefore, will make their offers twenty-seven 
and twenty-eight and pay into the pool accordingly. 

As the dealer has the privilege of the last bid, his position is 
naturally the most desirable. 

As previously stated in the rules, there is no “second bid;” 
hence, the player who has passed once is out of it.altogether. 

When two players “get clear,” the pool, which is made up 
of the thirteen chips paid in by the others, who were “loaded,” 
and the amount bid on the choice of suits, is divided between 
them. When one player alone takes the thirteen it becomes a 
jack-pot, as in sweepstakes, with this variation, however, in- 


3^ 


HEARTS. 


stead of selling the money choice to the highest bidder, the 
successful one in this, the jack-pot hand, has the choice again, 
and must select a suit, although paying nothing for it. This 
he must go on doing until the pool is won by somebody. 

It is a foregone conclusion, of course, that in this variation 
three or more players pit themselves against the successful 
bidder, and load him to the extent of their ability, letting each 
other go meanwhile. 

Just how much pleasure the amateur can get out of this game 
depends upon the individual, and as regards the question of ac¬ 
tual gain, it will doubtless be seen after a few rounds that it is 
very decidedly a game of chance rather than of skill. 

AUCTION HEARTS. 

(Five-handed Game.) 



A’s HAND. 



A Bids 25. 


b’s hand. 
Hearts—A, 4. 

Clubs—7. 

Diamonds—K, 8, 6, 2. 
Spades—Kn, 9, 5. 

Bids 26. 


C’S HAND. 

Hearts—5. 

Clubs—A, K, 10, 6. 
Diamonds—10. 
Spades—A, 10, 7, 3. 
Bids 27. 


d’s hand. 
Hearts—9, 3. 
Clubs—Q, 8, 5, 3. 
Diamonds—5, 4. 
Spades—Q, 6. 
Bids 28 


e’s hand. 
Hearts—K, Kn, 8, 
Clubs—Kn, 4. 
Diamonds—Q,Kn,3. 
Spades—8, 4. 

Passes. 


SQ 




A Star (*) Denotes the Winning Card. 

Trick I. THE PLAY. Trick II. 

*C C 



B Deals. 












Trick HI. 

c 


HEARTS. 


Trick IV. 
*C 


37 



Trick VII. 


Trick VIII. 


C 


c 


















38 


HEARTS. 


Trick IX. 

c 




A takes 6 clubs; B takes 3 clubs; C takes no clubs; D takes no clubs; E takes 3 clubs. 


PROGRESSIVE HEARTS. 

This is played after the manner of progressive euchre as far 
as arrangement of players, tables and scoring are concerned. 

It is played, of course, by any number of couples, two couples 
being necessary to each table, and the number of tables limited 
by the taste and discretion of the hostess. 

Here, as in euchre, the tables are numbered. No. i is 
always the head table. 

Two cards or chips for each table, one denoting head and 
foot, the other the sides, are placed in one basket, and in two 
others the names, respectively, of the ladies and gentlemen 
present. The original partners and their positions at the var¬ 
ious tables are decided by the drawing of a card or slip from 
each receptacle simultaneously. At each table the deal is de¬ 
termined after the usual custom, and the game started by a 
signal, generally the ringing of a bell at Table No. i. 

The game proceeds after the manner of Sweepstake Hearts, 
although there are no stakes involved, the aim of the players 
individually being for the ladies to “ load ” each other and the 
men, on their part, to pursue the same , course toward one an¬ 
other. At the end of a hand or upon the signal from the 
head table, when the game ceases peremptorily, all compare 
their hands, one lady with the other and one man with another, 
and the lady having fewer hearts than the other and the man 
who also has less than his masculine opponent, go up one 
table. Ties are settled by cutting, the one cutting the higher 
card going up; ace, of course, is low. 

A great deal of fun is gotten out of this and often a pretty 







HEARTS. 


39 


bit of by-play is displayed in the way of denoting a preference, 
for a woman can here “ load ” the man whom she most desires 
to leave behind, and on his part a man can, with equal free¬ 
dom, assist the lady whom he prefers to have go to the higher 
table. 

Cards for scoring are used here as in euchre. The two 
players at Table No. I having the fewest hearts, remain there, 
each receiving a gold star, while the progressive players mark 
each move to a higher table by a red star (or heart), and the 
least fortunate, those who are “loaded,” have each a green or 
blue star. Stars are the usual insignia, but any other design, 
such as crescents, diamonds, hearts, etc., can be used for 
variety. 

Prizes are given here as in euchre. The scores (stars) of the 
ladies and gentlemen being separately compared, the players 
having the greatest number of gold stars receiving first prizes, 
the progressive players the second and the unfortunate posses¬ 
sors of the largest amount of green stars the third, or, as it is 
generally called, the booby prize. 

To people addicted to card games in general this will be 
found a very agreeable and amusing change from progressive 
euchre, and quite as easily learned. 

DRIVE HEARTS. 

This is still another variety of the extensive game, and is 
especially adapted to large gatherings. The tables are num¬ 
bered here as in the preceding game and the players arranged 
after the same manner. Four duplicates of each number are 
used in the drawing of lots. Chips are not used, but cards, on 
which the score is kept, are given to each of the players. Each 
move to a higher table is denoted by a fresh star of any color 
determined upon prior to the beginning of the game. 

When Table No. i has been reached, the player who has 
taken the fewest hearts remains there, receiving still another 
star (say silver), while the one who has the most descends to 
the very last or lowest table. If the player at Table No. i 
again takes the fewest hearts he receives a gold star, and so 
long as he manages to keep the number down he receives this 
star in regular turn. 

When there is a tie, the two players taking the fewest hearts 
keep their places, and instead of cutting receive a silver star 
each, notwithstanding that they may already have won gold 
stars. The gold stars are only for those who have taken more 
than any player at Table No. i on two or more consecutive 
rounds. Of course, when two tie for the fewest hearts at 
Table No. i, the other two go down, while two each from the 


40 


HEARTS. 


other tables are advanced respectively. When a tie of three 
occurs at the first table, then each receives a silver star and 
the fourth player moves down. 

When it is a tie for the greatest number of hearts at the 
head table, the players who tie have to cut to go down. The 
strokes of the bell, one, two or three, as the case may be, an¬ 
nounce how many players are to go up. 

When a player at any table but the first has the misfortune 
to take thirteen hearts in one round, he must remain there for 
the two succeeding rounds, no matter what his score is, while a 
player at Table No. i who does this must descend to and re¬ 
main at the lowest table for the two ensuing hands. 

Occasionally variety is lent to the score by giving silver (or 
any colored) stars for the fewest number of hearts taken at all 
of the tables, ties each receiving stars, while the gold stars are 
presented to any one player who gets no hearts at all, each of 
the others having at least one or more apiece. 

According to this method the advancement is similar to that 
in progressive euchre, the vis-a-vis —head and foot in the game 
—moving up one table, taking side positions at the next table, 
while the two remaining at their table move from the sides to 
head and foot respectively. For this form of the game an even 
number of tables is essential. 

JOKER HEARTS. 

The joker replaces the two of hearts in this variation, stand¬ 
ing in value between the ten and knave. It can only be dis¬ 
carded in a trick where hearts are led and in which an ace or 
court card is played. If, however, one of his opponents dis¬ 
cards one of the above-mentioned cards in a trick of a plain 
suit, then the player who has the joker can avail himself of this 
chance to get rid of it, even if he happens to possess a card of 
the suit led; and he can, moreover, oblige the one who dis¬ 
carded the commanding heart to take the trick with the same 
instead of getting rid of it. 

The joker is worth five chips and there are two methods of 
settling. Sometimes this amount is paid by the players into 
the general pool, and again, the five chips are paid to the one 
who manages to discard the joker. When the player who has 
it takes it in with a trick, instead of discarding it he pays the 
pool. After all, it is a question of luck rather than skill, hence 
does not especially appeal to the serious card player. 

JACK-POT HEARTS. 

This variation, sometimes introduced into Hearts, is sug¬ 
gestive certainly of Poker, and in its way is quite as interesting. 


HEARTS. 


41 


The jack-pot, which is “ a thing apart ” from the ordinary 
pool, is opened by each player depositing a chip in any small 
receptacle provided for it. 

When, in the game which follows, one player only takes no 
hearts, then the others pay to him a chip on each heart cap¬ 
tured by them respectively, the four original counters, however, 
remaining in the pot. When two or three players take no 
hearts, then the twelve chips are equally divided among them, 
the thirteenth being the odd chip, representing the thirteenth 
heart, goes into the jack-pot, adding thus to its value. 

When all the players take hearts the thirteen counters are 
not put into the jack-pot, but forms instead a double pool, the 
whole of which is divided equally among the players who do 
not get any hearts the following hand. When three players 
get no hearts the odd counter w'hich remains after the division 
has been made is deposited in the jack-pot. 

At every fresh deal each player in turn puts one counter in 
the jack-pot, and this goes on until some one of the players is 
lucky enough not to take any trick at all, and thereby gains the 
jack-pot, and with it all the counters due him in the regular 
pool. When, as sometimes wall occur, two of the players take 
no trick, the jack-pot is divided, the odd counter which may re¬ 
main over after the division is made left to form the nucleus of 
a fresh jack-pot. 

A somewhat curious variation occasionally played is as fol¬ 
lows: The cards are dealt to the players, an equal number to 
each, and any which remain over after the distribution are 
placed face downward on the table and called the “widow.” 

The player who takes the first trick also takes the widow, as 
a part of the same, and with such hearts as it may chance to 
contain. The p’ayer has aright to look at the “widow',” as 
his knowledge of its contents will often be of assistance to him 
in guiding the p’ay of the rest of the cards in his hand. 

When four persons take part in the game, the equal distribu¬ 
tion of the cards would leave no widow, hence to obviate this, 
some very small card, two of diamonds, say, should be dis¬ 
carded, thus making a widow of three. 

When five take part in a game there will be a “ widow ” of 
two, and when six play a widow of four. 

At the end of a hand, if there are more than two among the 
players who have not captured any hearts, the pot remains un¬ 
divided, becoming instead a jack-pot. 

The players thus “ stuck ” pay the fines determined upon at 
the beginning of the game, one chip at least for each heart they 
hold, so that there will be not less than thirteen to a pot, and 
all aw'ait the result of the ensuing hand. 


42 


HEARTS. 


When there are less than five players the pot is not divided, 
and when, in such an event, there is more than one player with¬ 
out a heart, a jack-pot is declared. 

This brief outline of the various games to which the suit of 
hearts lends itself does not purport to be in any way a learned 
treatise on the same, but a simple guide rather, to the novice, 
who in his pursuance of the study will doubtless find and develop 
many possibilities not even suggested here. 


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